88 Sugot-Feneuil, Special Club Blanc de Blancs

Light Cramant-style carbonation. Chardonnay qualities are crisp with green apples and grapefruit dominating the otherwise unfruity palate. This is a champagne consumed with yeast -- bready, aggressively phenolic, and sensuously creamy. The acidity is typical and shows how austere this wine once was. It is now hitting its stride with the mild nuttiness of great vintage blanc de blancs.