00 La Fiorita, Laurus Toscana

Once you chew through the orb of tannins in this baby Brunello, the high-note acidity bolsters an enticingly meaty, blood iron palate backed by laboring dark berry fruit. Notes of Italian sausage, London broil, and tar. Spiced blood nose of anise and fennel. In Act II, the hard tannins yield to acid that, though bright, feels mild because of the sheer weight of this wine. And though meat dominates the palate, the denouement of Merlot fruit in the midpalate is more than enough to keep this wine interesting.