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October 12, 2004

95 Eric Rodez, Cuvee Millesime

Clean and pure, this brut champagne from the winemaker who once worked with Krug is luscious with lively lime, full creamy yeast, and vanilla. The high-note acidity is briefly jarring, but overall controlled after nine years, lending generous structure that's offset nicely by the ripe fruit. The 95 Rodez has all the parts of great champagne -- exhibiting an equal depth of grand cru pinot noir and grand cru chardonnay -- but leans a bit too far toward the juicy citrus and, at times, overwhelms its underlying charisma and elegance. The finish is climactic, peaking with a final burst of lime and nearly flinty yeast before trailing off thin.

1 Comments:

Blogger Nilay Gandhi said...

Though Champagne works with most anything, the 95 Rodez is an especially good answer to curried Indian dishes -- the lime notes naturally accenting the deep, aromatic spices. At cellar temperature, this went well with spiced potato dumplings in a buttermilk-curry sauce. The wine's fullness stands up to the slightly creamy sauce, while the sine wave acidity juliennes it on the tongue.

2:55 PM  

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