95 Eric Rodez, Cuvee Millesime

Clean and pure, this brut champagne from the winemaker who once worked with Krug is luscious with lively lime, full creamy yeast, and vanilla. The high-note acidity is briefly jarring, but overall controlled after nine years, lending generous structure that's offset nicely by the ripe fruit. The 95 Rodez has all the parts of great champagne -- exhibiting an equal depth of grand cru pinot noir and grand cru chardonnay -- but leans a bit too far toward the juicy citrus and, at times, overwhelms its underlying charisma and elegance. The finish is climactic, peaking with a final burst of lime and nearly flinty yeast before trailing off thin.