88 Krug

Butterscotch evolves to toasty nuts on the deep, open nose. That all ripens on the palate with precision and grace. The fruit is full, the smokeless phenols fully integrated. I expected bracing acidity and got what only served to complete the structure to near perfection. This is a very long champagne that willingly exposes the wine it will become in several years with a few short minutes on the tongue. But what I love most about 1988 Krug today is its ability to elucidate nearly every other champagne I've had in my life. My first thought was 95 Rodez and I have even more respect now than I did before for that former Krug winemaker's bubbles. For all its complexity, the Krug is ultimately light and never overbearing, singing with quiet, but exacting notes -- like a mother to her child.