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November 22, 2004

88 Krug

Butterscotch evolves to toasty nuts on the deep, open nose. That all ripens on the palate with precision and grace. The fruit is full, the smokeless phenols fully integrated. I expected bracing acidity and got what only served to complete the structure to near perfection. This is a very long champagne that willingly exposes the wine it will become in several years with a few short minutes on the tongue. But what I love most about 1988 Krug today is its ability to elucidate nearly every other champagne I've had in my life. My first thought was 95 Rodez and I have even more respect now than I did before for that former Krug winemaker's bubbles. For all its complexity, the Krug is ultimately light and never overbearing, singing with quiet, but exacting notes -- like a mother to her child.


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