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January 17, 2005

01 Gautheron, Chablis 1er Cru Les Fourneaux Vielles Vignes

Nervy with the jagged edges of a high carbon French knife used to hack through chicken bones. Austere. Jarring saltiness, lightly smoky, with some true, though reserved, fruit -- apples hit with a spritz of butter and honey. Textured. Still pretty closed, but developing an alluring roundness in the finish.


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