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April 28, 2005

02 Domaine du Salvard, Cheverny

This cheverny somehow makes sauvignon blanc friendly, without gutting it of any charisma. The sharp nose is as citric and grassy as that of any decent New Zealand one. The palate, though quite edgy, has an underlying richness of fruit that as much balances the acid as it challenges it. The acid responds in kind. This back and forth is lovely, showing the grape's sweet and saline sublimity. Pleasure and pain, but never the two in excess. The finish is short, but enthusiastic with budding flavors of peach, apricot, and clover honey.


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