NV Andre Clouet, Bouzy Grand Cru Grand Reserve Brut

Much like the Silver Brut with higher dosage, the Grand Reserve sears with stoniness, yet manages a soft quaffability that makes me want to lay out in a sun room and drink all day. The signature salinity yields to a precious denouement of candied orange peel and biscuits. Depending on the bottle, it can be too bubbly and intense--too Bollinger--and have a finish so clean that it reminds me of great bottled water. This is a great wine; maybe Clouet set the bar too high with the new "1911" tete de cuvee blend of the 95, 96, and 97 vintages.