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April 01, 2005

03 Gautheron, Chablis 1er Cru Les Fourneaux

This shimmering bronze wine might as well be a statue for chardonnay. Not nearly as nervy (yet) as the 2001 VV, the 03 Les Fourneaux exhibits a grace and intensity rarely seen in Chablis. It is both full with waxy pineapples and rich buttered pecans, and cleanly mineral with New Zealand sauvignon-like acidity and a delicate creme fraiche finish. Grassy and herbal. As the wine opens up, it intensifies and picks up a mitigated sharpness. Though I've only had a couple 03 Chablis, I'm guessing the sun beat down hard on those vineyards that year -- and the grapes took it in stride.


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