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August 25, 2005

02 Alice et Olivier de Moor, Bourgogne Aligote

Chardonnay, Normandy style? I don't know what would happen if you grew grapes in Normandy, but this Burgundian cousin of chardonnay is a good representation of Norman apple cider. Its acid can be aggressive, but at its singular core this wine is dry green apple extract and cloves with no detectable oak. It's hard-nosed and needs a few minutes to blow off, but hides a soft, cooling yet volatile texture beneath its tough surface. Though a decent summer sipper, it does best with food, finding its identity next to earthy spices, acid, and raw red onions.


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