01 Meo-Camuzet, Richebourg Grand Cru
This is pornographic pinot noir. It's heavy, decadent, but nonetheless spry--an upside down pyramid of sensations. The nose justifies cost. Whatever esoteric metaphors the wine conjures--I keep thinking of tying a cherry stem with my tongue--it is not to be lost in its talk. The point of all this--the perfect aroma; the layered tastes of cherry, raspberry, red currants, chocolate, and toasted walnuts; and the moving balance of sweet fruit, acid, and unfiltered creaminess--is simply to enjoy pinot. The Meo-Camuzet is not a hard wine, not like Romanee-Conti--in fact, it resembles ripe California pinot noir at its core and the finish is unduly short. But it makes me want to surrender. Thank you, Michael.