01 Marques de Gelida, Cava Brut Exclusive Reserva

In addition to being more refreshing than a busted fire hydrant on a hot summer's day, this is tremendously complex Catalonian cava. The vinous flavors of macabeo and xarel-lo are more akin to pinot-driven champagne, surging with grape flesh and red apple skins, which play up the lean aroma of Granny Smith apples soaked in lemon juice, waiting to be baked into pie. Oddly enough, the texture is crisp, nearly crunchy with carbonation. This is an ensemble of classic sparkling flavors, with the fruit intensity of warm-climate grapes and yet the elegance and texture usually only derived several miles north and east of here.