06 Siduri, Willamette Valley Pinot Noir

There are pinots that kill you with their economy. Pint-sized and "nuanced" like the roses (ro-zays) that they really are, you find yourself loving them, the way you tell people how much you love reading "War and Peace." Yeah, you really connect to Dada, too. There's something in nothing, 'cause nothing is everything. Man. Then you run to the bathroom with a bottle of Siduri, and come back with streaks of pork fat glistening from your chin. Wines like this tremendous Siduri seem to pride themselves on the grape. Oh, holy altar of pinot noir, you are more than just a conduit for dirt and dogma. Oak and oligarchy. This is the rare freedom that pinot offers--a taste of seasons changing, sweet cherry blossom spring turning to composting leaves, marigolds in the window. There's such a steady force to this wine, controlled, but still full of peppery cherry, mulberry, and watermelon flavors. I'm going on. Truth is, you might not like this wine. It's bright, acidic, and seething with raunchy yeast. It feels like it should be bubbling. Which actually seems quite right, locked in a bathroom with the faucet running. Paul Simon leaking through the speakers. The grass is high, the fields are ripe. It's the springtime of my life.