04 Robert Chevillon, Bourgogne Nuits St Georges

Best to write about this while it's still fresh in my mind--sometimes I fear the memories will be as fleeting as the flavors. This is the thing you don't get elsewhere. I chose the Chevillon last night to follow champagne at Tru (what a ridiculous sentence this is shaping up to be), and it couldn't have been a more perfect pairing... for the champagne. It disappears next to even the simplest of foods--olive-oil-poached salmon, sashimi--this is not your en vogue try-it-with-turkey pinot. I wouldn't even challenge it with stuffing. About the only thing that goes with this wine from the hilly north-Burgundy limestone of Nuits St. Georges is another wine. The acid and fall fruit of blanc de blancs champagne fill the void in this pinot, which is more about its ambrosial aromatics than flavor--smelling like the sweet flour of warm pate a choux. I regretted not getting one of Chevillon's 1er crus instead, like the much-heralded Les Vaucrains. I suspect it has the concentration that this Chevillon is lacking. A tease, really, as it is--round and floral with a rooty sweetness, as though carrots or parsnips could blossom, could groom the ire of this raw, rocky soil.