NV Bollinger, Champagne Brut Special Cuvee

There's something about democracy that keeps me from truly liking this wine. Oh, my American ways. We gluttonous expatriates always want more. So when this Brit-friendly champers hits the table, something inside me turns a little bit. It's fascistly austere, and while I love dry champagne (see: Andre Clouet Silver Brut), there's too much left to be desired with Bollinger. Ironically, it's outclassed by the very Ay and Bouzy wines it's sourced from, and the heavy dose of Gatinois that is rumoured to make up most of the NV cuvee bottlings is exactly the dosage I want to drink. It's bold, vinous, and searingly mineral-laden with aromatics that could make a chef fall in love with his baker. Umami meets sourdough, walnuts, shortbread, and golden roux. That makes this wine the course right after cheese but before dessert, when you sneak in one more bite of pork with the bitter orange marmalade. But then the rest of Bolli comes through--harsh and woody from all that aging on the lees. How proper, smashing--bollocks.