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November 12, 2009

06 Bouchard Pere et Fils, Bourgogne Monthelie Les Duresses

I might as well have been holding the oracle of Delphi, because everyone was transfixed and no one would dare question me while this was on the table. At L2O, Chef Laurent Gras' seafood capital of the world... most statements begin and end there. Yeah, I was at L2O, and it was amazing, but it was also a bit of a landmark for this wine. Because at the end of the night, tempura lobster, Osetra, even foie gras "snow" aside, it was this pinot noir that stole the show. I consider myself lucky. While paging through what might have been a 100-page wine list, I came across this bottle. But how could I have the answer? Obviously, there's a better wine in here for my meal. So I asked, I'd love this Monthelie, but I'd be up for your recommendations. "No, that's pretty much it." But even she was amazed. In its youth, this wine from the south-facing neighbor of Volnay is all the sensuous, silky pinot that one man in a committed relationship can possibly take. Pulled from Les Duresses, the region's best vineyard, it magnifies flavors of raspberry, ginger, and pepper. But the flavors don't matter. They'll be different depending on whether you're having it with sushi-grade tuna, flash-frozen foie dust, roasted vegetables, steak, or on its own. What won't be is how you feel afterwards, which is rejuvenated, slightly incredulous, raw, but handled well. Question my taste, ask me what you will, but this is the answer.


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