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October 22, 2004

00 Domaine Joseph Voillot, Volnay 1er Cru Les Brouillards

Elegance, class, and funk. High note acidity that both accentuates and balances the bright red cherry fruit. The acid is a beautiful contrast to the gritty, yet velvety tannins -- Volnay the morning after riding a bull -- that grab hold and encourage this wine to linger for over a minute. Vanilla bean, caramel butter, and toffee ooze late into the finish which itself is pure, precise, and enveloping. And amidst all this fruit and French oak, all this deific structure, is actually a palatial sense of terroir with notes of gravel in the sixth or seventh layer of this wine.

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