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March 07, 2005

01 Domaine du Closel, Savennieres Clos du Papillon

Only the most entertaining of palates will find any semblance of fruit in this caustically acidic, alcohol-laden chenin blanc. This is the most closed white wine I have ever had -- consistently void of any aroma or flavor to the point of seeming corked. It relies on a stubborn, disinterested, but promising structure that I'm told will bloom in several years. The deep golden color is perhaps the only sign of what this wine might be; after several hours of decanting, the Savennieres opens -- like a single crack in the attic ceiling -- to unfiltered honey and woody spice. Dry, bitter, green.


Blogger Nilay Gandhi said...

Incidentally, it makes great risotto.

9:28 AM  
Blogger Bubblehead said...

So I take it that this would be on the "not recommended" list?

10:36 PM  
Blogger Nilay Gandhi said...

No, really -- it makes great risotto! I don't give straight recommendations, so take from the notes what you will. I will say that many people who know much more about wine than me are convinced that this will greatly improve with age. This is my first Savennieres and I acknowledge that it is a very difficult wine.

8:42 AM  
Blogger Nilay Gandhi said...

P.S. Despite the comparison to a corked (spoiled) wine, I've had several bottles with consistent notes. It's not corked.

8:44 AM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

I had an amazing Savennieres experience last night. Similarly ambivalent at the start, by the end of the night it was absolutely beautiful. Blogged about it at wineplunge.com

10:50 AM  

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