03 Ponzi, Willamette Valley Pinot Noir Tavola

It radiates with unctuous beams of blueberry, blackberry, and black cherry, and a long smoky finish of nutmeg, cedar, and tarragon butter. The only thing that fades when I drink this wine is the strength in the back of my knees. The nose is mushroomy -- decidely in touch with the Willamette Valley terroir. Though many claim that 2003 is an unruly, overripe vintage, this Tavola shows little signs of anything but the richness and balance of 2002. For all the dramatics of Ponzi wines, the 03 Tavola is nothing but mature, wholesome, and complete. After 30 minutes open, the tannins really emerge; raspberry and French vanilla flavors come to dominate.