03 Holloran, Riesling Willamette Valley Le Pavillon Vineyard

Far dryer than most any 2003 German kabinett, this Oregon riesling is caustically young. Its mentholly mineral and ginger aroma whistles from the surface like a squealing balloon. The flavors are tart and lemony with some fuller pear, smoky lime leaves, quinine, and green grapes in the finish. It's a wine that demands much more time in the bottle--as any good Alsatian would be aged--for the fruit to reveal itself and for the texture to evolve.