82 Chateau Gruaud-Larose, St. Julien

Meaty and masculine with little interesting fruit, but raw vaporous leather on the nose and palate that could make even Ted Nugent shy. The wine's murky red-orange color foreshadows the swampy, grilled steak flavors. It finishes long with mint and a little raspberry and black currant, though not much minerality. Still tannic and youthful.