04 Elio Perrone, Moscato d'Asti

Think back to drinking cream soda out of the can as a kid, and you can manage this wine. While I maintain that its success as a pairing with fruit sorbets, cookies, cakes, and pies justifies its existence, I often have a hard time admitting anything about this candy wine in publc. Snobbery aside, though, the Perrone is among the better moscatos I've had. Because of the vineyard's north-facing slopes, the grapes aren't as sun-drenched, resulting in wines of a bit higher acidity. It smells like carnations. While the sugar and flavors of peach filling aren't shy, the finish is politely dry and clean, though gassy. The carbonation is light (despite the large mousse) and plays OK against the sweetness.