NV Diebolt-Vallois, Brut Blanc de Blancs

This is a nice introduction to Cramant, known for its elegant (but often aggressive) champagnes that can finish stern and smoky. For a non-vintage, it has good staying power, age-worthy for at least a couple years. The aroma is classically yeasty, like fresh wheat poolish and soy crisps. The lemon fruit and lime zest flavors saturate the mouth, but have a surge of coolness almost like crushed ice. If you said this was a '95, I wouldn't have argued.