03 Dr. Pauly-Bergweiler, Wehlener Sonnenuhr (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer) Riesling Kabinett

I accept that the so-called kabinetts of this super-ripe vintage are naturally more like the sweeter spatleses. But, after tasting through a couple dozen, that seems more like a cop-out than an explanation of what happened that year. Many have achieved great balance, and this is one of them. Its smoky, slightly pungent wet stone aroma is much more classic than the plush, nectarous gas of so many other 2003s. It's by no means lean--the palate gushes with apricot/tangerine smoothie and clover honey--but the acidity brings great freshness to what might otherwise be a flabby effort.