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June 04, 2005

99 Cennatoio, Arcibaldo IGT Toscana

The flavors feel like they should clash, but I am learning something with this wine. It is a "super Tuscan," the clever marketing-speak for IGT--Italy's second weakest classification of wine. Purists and terroiristes should not be afraid, though; this wine is nothing if not a clear expresssion of Tuscany. The sauvage sangiovese-driven nose is piercingly classic. First sniffed blind, this was obviously burly sangiovese or brunello. One sip sticks you deep in the heart of cabernet, however, which makes up 50% of this wine. The dark berry flavors are jousted by ample notes of raw, bitter chocolate and roasted plums. That must be the "super" part.

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