03 Brooks, Rastaban

The greatest structured Oregon pinot noir I have ever had, this wine has as much in common with the delicate, often shy red varietal as carignane or syrah. That said, it fits right into the bastard family of Brooks' other off-road pinot noirs: the Janus and the Maysara Delara. It's smoky and raunchy with the most amazing acid--as if my tongue is being seared on a hot bed of citrus-scented coals and rawhide. The flavors only increase with every passing moment, developing from thick Rhone-ranger tar to burnt cherries, black pepper, porcini and morel mushrooms, and Mexican vanilla. How can I sleep tonight?