00 Artadi, Grandes Anades

Like a well-seasoned gourmet meal, the Grandes Anades is so cautiously crafted that I can hardly focus on its flavors as much as its construction. Most striking is the stemmy, wild cured meat aroma. I can picture a white rectangular platter of chorizo, pearl onions, and grilled fennel before me. The flavors complement, but with more salt--like the leftover deli pastrami sandwich and chocolate lava cake I know I shouldn't be eating after midnight. That spice takes over and lingers on an otherwise light finish as the tart wine opens to cumin, black cherry, and a few specks of vanilla bean.