97 Fattoria di Felsina, Fontalloro
This is an infirmary wine: sick, but well taken care of and, at certains times of night, haunting. Sangioveto returned to its native Tuscany, the Fontalloro is a strong, now stern expression with brawny flavors of tart cherry and bittersweet chocolate. It's even sauvage on occassion, wild but eminently drinkable, decidedly fruity, but unshy of its rustic roots. The tannins have all but withdrawn, the acid mellowed--I suppose this is what one would call mature.