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August 12, 2006

03 Pelissero, Barbaresco Vanotu

The season is on fire. The whole season of spring burns with this wine. A classic barbaresco, Pelissero names it for his grandfather--"Vanotu" a Piedmontese cipher for the elder Giovanni--and I really think this is a wine the old man might have tasted in his youth. Redolent with a gushing bouquet of white peaches and garden mint, floral in the mouth, and dark in its tight finish of bitter black licorice and tar, this is an unadulterated wine to brood over for the next several years. Thank you, Paolo.


Blogger Nilay Gandhi said...

Though tight and aggressive in its infancy, it is transformed by mild, artisinal salumi--the natural stone fruit characteristics of dried pork elevating the fruit while the pillowy chunks of fat give amazing contrast to the tannins and tar.

9:03 PM  
Blogger bacca said...

I am more and more astonished by the ageing capacity of Barbaresco. We recently had a 1996 bottle by Produttori del Barbaresco cooperative which was outstanding despite its EUR25 price at which it retails (when it is put on sale)... so, "buy and forget..."


2:13 AM  
Blogger Nilay Gandhi said...

It is the joy of modern (not necessarily modernized) Piedmont. The 96s were tight and many are still drinking like infants. I'm a bit surprised that Produttori hung in there; it's such a flattering wine in its youth.

Who could turn down paying EU25 for a 10-year-old Barbaresco, though? As long as there's nothing seeping down the sides, that's a chance I'd almost always be willing to take. Nice find, bacca!

5:38 PM  

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