04 Celler Can Blau, Montsant

Straddling Priorato like fresh legs around an untamed horse, the innocence of Can Blau's Montsant is what makes it so good. You expect it to fall off, but then it locks in its heels. A depth-charge of fresh blueberries, muddled raspberries, and chalky mineral, the fruit explodes, as if atomized through a cloud of eraser dust. There's syrah down there. Deep. And it bleeds slowly over an hour, adding the weedy aroma of wildflowers and espresso-burnt fennel, damp from its Mediterranean climate on the right elbow of Spain. That secret weapon also adds a profound silkiness, jammy and tannic without being tight--a wholesome elegance that calms the lusty garnacha grape.