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February 23, 2007

02 Paul Garaudet, Monthelie

Pinot should be judged by the way it moves you. And if that hurts objectivity--hurts the science of this silly trade--then let's bruise it 'til it bleeds. Because, regardless of price, provenance, or power--the three-headed beast of high wine scores--Garaudet's Monthelie is perfect pinot noir. From a region in the Beaune, France, known to resemble Volnay without the elegance (which is like saying Miles without the cool), its iron edge is what makes this wine such an ideal. The aromatics are a cupboard of Provencal spices with powdered dried cherries shining through. And the palate unfolds slowly, much like a sonnet before the turn, with cranberries, button mushrooms, tar, sweet smoked paprika, and a finish of English breakfast tea in the spit that mitigates the wine's mild tannin. This is a beautiful effort, emblematic of Bourgogne--a warm home, rather than a tower, to pinot noir. Thank you, J.V.

1 Comments:

Anonymous Michelaccio said...

What a great value this wine is. All the romance of Burgundy without the pretense. Call it the "poor man's Volnay" if you will, but that would be a tribute, not an insult. Monthelie is just that, the harder working cousin of Volnay or Pommard. This is an area where hard working men and women still make their wine "old school." I just tasted the 2004 version of this wine and immediately wanted to find a big portobello mushroom and something pork related to grill up. I just hope wines like this continue to fly under the radar of trophy hunting Burgundy freaks everywhere.

8:09 PM  

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