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January 08, 2007

NV Billecart-Salmon, Champagne Mareuil-Sur-Ay Brut Reserve

At some point, a wine just can't have any more body. Painful, at times, and exhausting, it's a loud, constantly-popping bottle of pinot noir and pinot meunier that uses the chardonnay grape the way a great steak takes salt. The white mixer's tartness of golden and granny smith apples somehow only accentuates the dense, meaty flavors of waxy blueberries and honey that are at this wine's core, lifted by boisterous bubbles and a bold, woody aroma. It's a live wire charging through me, a complex circuitry of perfectly underripened fruit and steely terroir.... What is that ringing in my ears?


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