00 Marchesi di Barolo, Barolo Cannubi

Bullied by the heat of 2000--a heat that led some writers to declare it Piedmont's greatest vintage of all time--this is a gross showing of nebbiolo, outrageously overripened, singular, and obnoxious. It's a pest of a wine, centered around a juicy, garnacha-like raspberry taste backed by hints of black licorice and fennel. Over and over again. Though young, the tannins have all but flushed out, leaving the awkward texture chalky, with enough grip for mild antipasto and cheese. But that's all that's there, much like a $10-15 bottle of modern Spanish or Italian table wine, but not nearly enough nuance to earn the noble Cannubi cru name.