04 Cameron Hughes, Barbera Sierra Foothills Lot 17
It could pass for great California merlot, and whatever it lacks in semblance to "true" barbera, the wine makes up for in seamless intensity. The tart, grapey taste is almost like bubble gum seasoned with red chili oil. I love the juiciness of this wine, much like the Runquist "barbera," with 14.5% alcohol providing weight, but no heat. What a luscious wine. On top of all that fruit, there's just a hint of earth and a clean finish of chalky, wet stone tannin. Who cares about terroir? I do. But not today.