90 Bruno Paillard, Champagne Reims Brut N.P.U.

If you could combine my favorite flavors from Champagne and give me something that would age, easily, for at least another 10 years, you would be Bruno Paillard and your wine would be called "Nec Plus Ultra," French for "nothing more beyond." Because nothing lies above or beside this assertive summary of the 1990 vintage--a wine that pains me with its complexity. First, there is the simple dry raw almond taste of old chardonnay, which drowns in the passion of Paillard's pinot noir. It is indeed an extreme example of sparkling wine, as delicate flavors quickly transform themselves into the persistent taste of tart raspberry and baked Fiji apples with toasty caramel undertones. This is a wine that thrives on power, feverishly, manic with what tastes like the laughter of a crazy clown. And then it just explodes. Thank you, Danielle.