01 Domaine Joseph Voillot, Bourgogne

This is a wine that frees you from the confines of Bourgogne. Bright, fresh, and lively--as any pinot noir should be--this relatively tired table wine still sings on pitch with clear notes of bright cherry and cranberry. But it's the nose that drives it--making it seem more complex than it really is. The earthy aroma makes me wild, reminding me of sauteed button mushrooms on a countertop beside dried porcinis rehydrating in the background. It's noticeably light and unaffected, but still each note--be it the simple wet sop aroma or the overwhelmingly bright acidic taste--is loud and persistent. It's a young kid trying to show me what he's made of. He won't ever beat me, no matter how old he gets, but I wouldn't dare hit him too hard. He deserves better. Thank you, David.