NV Gatinois, Champagne Ay Brut

How can anything ever make you crave raw tuna topped with blocks of ice-cold watermelon? It's all I want, sipping this defiantly powerful grand cru pinot noir tinged with 10% chardonnay. Is the chardonnay there to lighten the wine, or was it just what these south-facing pinot grapes snacked on in the noonday sun? It all looks so delicate in the slender glass--beading a thin baby's breath of bubbles simmering to the surface. Pretty looks aside, this is a wild monster of Champagne, frothing mad at the gums with the taste of jammy grape juice and tangy acidity--fruit that's both fleshy and raw at the same time. The aroma's even bigger, thudding rich scents of what an orange and apple would smell like if they were grown in hell. You don't drink wines like this. You confess them.