01 Montevertine, Toscana IGT
Some say the sangioveto in Montevertine belongs in Burgundy. But why even bother with the thought, when it's what makes Toscana so great? Styled classically, with a small percentage of canaiolo and colorino blended in, this wine is virtuous with patience and calm. And that shy virtue is perhaps what helps it show so well. The lean, cherry flavors landmark of Chianti are whispy here--maybe even ghost-like--but those sheets blowing in the night wind soon turn to the fire of daybreak, smoky like a morning in the springs, finishing with tar, toasty earth, and fresh black pepper. You could miss it if you moved too fast. Or you could be moved and miss it once it's gone.