85 Diebolt-Vallois, Cramant Brut Blanc de Blancs

The 1985 is Diebolt-Vallois' best current-release champagne. It comes from a spate of recently-disgorged wines that, collectively, show just about the entire profile of bubbly chardonnay. Against the 1979, it's usually much creamier, classic, and less exotic. Usually. This time around, the wine's evolved into a dissertation on the taste of toasted almonds. It could use a little more acid, but only because I'm a fetishist. Otherwise, the soft, yeasty, buttery brioche profile is second to few and puts this champagne among the great blanc de blancs on the market today.