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August 29, 2006

02 Coche-Bizouard, Premier Cru Meursault Charmes

After two days and a dozen other wines, I think I still taste this chardonnay. Decadent, lush, powerful, and yet somehow reserved, the 2002 Coche-Bizouard is a gift of gaudy proportions. It has tonnage to its weight, lugging dense flavors of creme fraiche, lemon custard, stones, and golden apples like tires across the palate. This is apple pie ready to be put into the oven. Its youthful wood spice dominates, redolent of Christmas with nutmeg and cinammon. But it's the terroir of this 1er cru that sets it apart from other Burgundies--a couple quick whiffs of mineral that command a hefty markup, but really complete Meursault. Thank you, Danielle.

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