85 Quinta do Infantado, Porto Estate Bottled

Something like a Dao that's sat out for two days, there's a seamlessness to the simplicity and texture of this soft vintage port. Saturated with sediment, it needs a very careful decant, but, even muddied with tannin, it's lovely and elegant. The flavors are mostly grapey with light hints of something like blueberry and lavendar--a young Hermitage syrah or cru Beaujolais gamay on the nose. There's little concentration here, though, with a spike of spice in the finish and hardly any sweetness whatsoever. It drinks more like a table wine than a port, which is perhaps its charm.