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December 17, 2006

96 J. J. Prum, Riesling Graacher Himmelreich Auselese

This, like every single-vineyard J. J. Prum, is one of the world's great wines. It's jarring in its complexity. Smoky with the calling card Prum aroma of diesel and slight whiffs of sulfur, this is a decadent, glorious offering that shames us when we drink it. I feel bad for some reason, like I'm living a life too pleasurable to continue. Flavor-wise, the ripe Graacher is packed with tangerines, dried apricots, nectarines, pear nectar, and orange blossom honey. But, whatever it tastes like, it's the impeccable structure that sets this wine apart from other top rieslings--a sweet palate undercut but equally intense acidity, both overwhelming, yet somehow harmonious, like the torrid peace of tornadoes on a plain.


Blogger Nilay Gandhi said...

Really great with duck.

12:29 AM  
Blogger Thomas said...

Prum rieslings are always among my favorites.

9:25 PM  
Blogger Nilay Gandhi said...

I once talked to a distributor who said that the total market for Prum riesling in a city like Chicago is probably about 30.

I can't believe how few people drink this stuff. I've yet to have a non-Prum German riesling that moved me as much as a Prum.

Of course, the Alsatians are another story....

3:52 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Hey Nilay I just bought 2000 Prums (graacher&wehlner) at piccadilly for $12 a piece stop telling people riesling is good.

8:52 PM  
Blogger Nilay Gandhi said...


9:07 PM  

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