96 J. J. Prum, Riesling Graacher Himmelreich Auselese

This, like every single-vineyard J. J. Prum, is one of the world's great wines. It's jarring in its complexity. Smoky with the calling card Prum aroma of diesel and slight whiffs of sulfur, this is a decadent, glorious offering that shames us when we drink it. I feel bad for some reason, like I'm living a life too pleasurable to continue. Flavor-wise, the ripe Graacher is packed with tangerines, dried apricots, nectarines, pear nectar, and orange blossom honey. But, whatever it tastes like, it's the impeccable structure that sets this wine apart from other top rieslings--a sweet palate undercut but equally intense acidity, both overwhelming, yet somehow harmonious, like the torrid peace of tornadoes on a plain.