04 Maison Champy, Bourgogne

Earthier, fruitier, and, frankly, more "Burgundian" than the 2002, this is the kind of pinot noir that drives California winemakers up a wall. Sweet, yet elegant, it has a ruddy core that pales out at the edges of the tongue--showing macerated tart cherries and fennel against the sweet herb of its duxelle- and kriek-like aroma. This is decadent for declassified pinot noir, but in terms that all Old World wine lovers could enjoy--like the 2000 and 2002 Voillots. What it lacks? Duck.