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April 14, 2007

04 Clos la Coutale, Cahors

A squirrel lived here once. Not in Cahors, but in this bottle. A squirrel wearing a leather jacket. Why a squirrel? I don't know--because there's something fidgety about this wine, something quick, lean, and gamey. The 80% malbec--far better than its cousins from South America--
is wild in that way, a damp soil midden full of bitter chocolate, flint, fall leaves, and campfire embers. All of which could lead to a delightful, but purely academic wine, were it not for the 20% merlot, which powers through with fresh, ripe blueberries. This wine might be all about the malbec, but I really just see that as a seasoning--an old, dusty cabinet of savory spices--for the fruit. It's rare to find a wine so terroir-driven, yet so approachable at the same time. It's crawling inside me.


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