02 Gautheron, Chablis 1er Cru Les Fourneaux Vielles Vignes

Denser than the 2003, far less acidic than the 2001, and the most youthful of these three vintages, this 2002 Gautheron expresses Chablis simply and quietly. The aroma is singular, but robust--a missile of freshly-cut Granny Smith apples, uncompromised by looming acid. The body is buttery, though the taste is distinctly mineral-laden. At this point, the fatty texture actually overpowers the flavors, which are delicately appley with minor notes of savory spice and nougat. Rich enough to where I probably would've pegged this one as a young Burgundy--"blank"-Montrachet if I had to.