97 Domaine Parent, Corton Grand Cru Les Renardes
I had to delete my notes and think about this for another hour. What begins as a funky, light, mushroomy table pinot noir that reminds me of taleggio cheese grows fierce. The easy-sipping texture--I thought this wine was on its last legs--suddenly gets exponentially tannic and spicy. It grows a pair. Cinammon cherries, cranberries, red currants, plums, and tart raspberries make up the delineated palate, while all the spice and jam behind that fruit surge through the slightly nutty finish. There's a lot of power here.