03 S.A. Prum, Riesling Spatlese Graacher Himmelreich

Man, how right-on was Wine Spectator in its early article on the super-ripeness of the 03 German rieslings? At this point none of the tightly mineral aroma shows in the flabby, moscato d'Asti-like taste. The sweetened baked peach flavors are loud and bully what tiny bit of acidity is there. For 2003, however, this is not unusually sweet. The sugar's at about the level of the 03 J.J. Prum Wehlner Kabinett -- technically the least ripe of rieslings. I'm holding out hope that this will come together in the next five years. It can be tiresome right now, but it's a fun wine that comes into its own when paired with pure fat. A few glasses are just right with an after-dinner plate of French blue cheese.