93 Famiglia Anselma, Barolo

This, Anselma's first Barolo, unfortunately comes from one of Piedmonte's most medicore and apparently short-lived vintages of the 90s. It is a traditionally styled wine with enticing aromas -- an odd but appetizing mix of apples and broth -- and raw flavors of orange, tangerine, and pate at the forefront. The 93 is fully mature right now, very light and very thin, but does gain some nice smoky accents with time in the glass. The winery admits, however, that only its Adasi riserva is meant for such long aging.