03 Cuvaison, Napa Valley Carneros Chardonnay

Though its compelling nuttiness wears off, the wine shoves on with white pepper, peach skin, vanilla, apricot, and dry, bitter green flavors and a quiet apple aroma. The alcohol adds a lot of spice and works well, but kills the finish where it burns hot on the gums and turns the flavors stewed, grapey, and distillate.