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September 26, 2005

02 J. Christopher, Willamette Valley Le Pavillon Vineyard Pinot Noir

This is one of Oregon's lighter, more elegant pinot noirs built for anyone who likes the weight of basic Bourgogne and the expansive flavors of the premier crus. It explores the science of subtlety, delivering rich toasty fruit flavors as a denouement instead of a flashy climax or headliner. The slow release of dried herbs, dark cherries, and wild raspberries on the palate leaves time to explore the earthy Burgundian aroma of walnuts and mushrooms roasted on a hot blacktop road. Everything simple in this wine comes off like an exotic delicacy. And, as opposed to the seamless Sandra Adele, Le Pavillon has noticeable tannins -- silky, but spicy enough to give the wine some nice heft in the finish.

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