02 Joseph Drouhin, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru

OK, "-Chambertin," I get it. Considering all the punch that these north-Burgundy pinot noirs pack into a bottle, I shouldn't be so surprised that even the delicate ones, like this Charmes, can be fierce. If Volnay is "an iron fist in a velvet glove," Drouhin's 02 Charmes is that glove wrapped in chicken wire. The sweet cherry flavors are concentrated, then suddenly suave, until the prickly tannins meet with some exotic spice for a powerful albeit abridged finish. It has gotten more aggressive over the past year.